Jordan McGilvray

For many years the pinnacle of dress shirts has been custom dress shirts.  Usually they are priced so high that they are not affordable for most people.  Some people, like me are just outside  the patterns for dress shirts.  I am tall, and I always have my shirts coming out from them being to short.  I came across the Fit Custom Shirts website.  They offered a unique proposition.  You measure yourself, pick your fabrics, various style options.  They will then create a pattern for you, and make your shirts.  The total turnaround is about two to three weeks.

Creating Custom Dress Shirts: The Process

The first step is to design your shirt.  In this stage you get to pick your fabrics.  My shirts are the #5313(White) & #5314(Light Blue).  The Swaths shown on the website and the colors of the shirts that came are really close.  I feel comfortable ordering any of the fabrics based on the swaths online.  The fabrics are in various ranges.  My shirts are from the $39.95 a shirt group.  you can buy shirts for $39.95 a shirt to $99.95 a shirt.

The second step is to design your shirt.

1. Choose the fit of your shirt.  You can choose slim, regular, and loose fit.  I chose loose fit shirts.
2. Choose your collar style.  I chose a traditional spread collar.
3. Choose your sleeve length.  I chose long sleeves.  You can choose short, short cuffed, or long sleeves.
4.  Choose your cuff style.  I chose Square French cuffs.  There are several types of Button and French cuffs available.
5. Choose your pocket style.  I chose a round cut pocket.  You can choose none, round cut, or V-Shape.  You can also choose one or two pockets.
6. Choose you placket.  The placket is where the buttons.  You can have a full, hidden, no placket, or two tuxedo style placket options.
7. Choose your back style.  I chose a center pleat.  You can choose a side pleat, a center pleat, or no pleat.
8. Choose your monogram style and location.  You can choose the font, and location.
9. Leave any special messages about your shirt.

The third step is to give them your measurements.  You can do this in several different ways:

• Give collar and arm sizes
• Measure a shirt you like
• Measure yourself

I chose the measure yourself option, as I felt this gives the most custom fit.

When I placed my order for five shirts I was given the option to have one shirt sent ahead of the others.  I suggest this so you can verify the fit of the shirts.  If you look at the image with the post it is the preview from the shirts I ordered.

Custom Dress Shirts: The Results

I am happy with the results of this process.  The most important thing to remember is that this is a slowish process.  Expect a few weeks to a month for it to arrive.  My shipments arrived on or before the dates I was given.  The quality of the shirt is great.  They fit really well.  I have been impressed with their communication.

I asked for a collar lining on my shirts.  The first one had it, but the rest of them did not.  I contacted them about it, and they responded in an a day, which I felt was a good response time.  They offered me a discount on my next order.  For me this was a satisfactory response.

I will order shirts from them again, as I have money.  You can choose your price level to meet your budget.

Overall Great product, service, and pricing.

I have been thinking about neckties  lately.  They seem to make or break outfits.  The following is the list of questions I have had:

• Where did they come from?
• How do I choose a tie to purchase?
• How do I match a tie to my outfit?
• How do I choose which knot to tie?

The History of Neckties

When I had a history class during school I learned about the history of neckties I was a little surprised.  Here is what I learned, with some help from the Wikipedia article about neckties.

The first version of the necktie was worn by men who were Croatian mercenaries fighting for France during the thirty years war.  Over time the Cravat, which the Croatians wore evolved into a few different items of men’s clothing, including the modern necktie.

Purchasing Neckties

Purchasing neckties can be a daunting task.  When faced with a rack of neckties the colors, patterns, and fabrics can be daunting.  The first thing to look at is the length if you are taller than average, or shorter, look for ties that match your height.  I know from experience that a tie that is to short leaves a little tail which is unmanageable.  Now that you are looking at the right rack of ties for your height look for classic patterns or solid colors.  Classic patterns, which are timeless are stripes, and paisleys.  Having a few fun ties is also nice for special occasions, or that day you feel silly.

Matching Neckties to Your Outfit

I believe that the easiest way to match a patterned tie is to find a tie with the color of your shirt and suit as secondary colors, with a third harmonious color as the main color.  Another look which can sometimes be done is to match the tie to the shirt so they do not have the same pattern but share a color.

Choosing the Knot to Tie

When you tie a necktie you have many knots to choose from.  I suggest you find one or two knots you feel comfortable with and learn to tie them really well.  If you are a bigger man I suggest a bigger, fuller knot.  The Windsor and the Pratt knots are my favorites.  I think the smaller knots look to small on me.

One of the things I’ve learned as I have studied grooming is that different occupations have different grooming needs.  I also have learned that generations of people may learn grooming habits which do not fit their own occupations.  I was in such a situation.  My grandfather was from a working class background and my father learned his grooming habits from that background.  Then in due process of time those were the skills which I learned.  It has taken me most of 34 years to learn how to be better at how I carry and groom myself.  My friend Mike said this, and I think it can be true for many people:

Sometimes my collar is white
Sometimes my collar is blue
Always my neck is a little red too.

What I learned From my Parents

What I realized was that there are many things my family taught me:

• To be honest
• How to be a good worker, though it took my first very understanding boss to help me understand why
• How to make good choices

What I did not get was a lot of education in grooming, dress, or manners.

Why I Wanted to Change my Grooming Habits

I started trying to learn better grooming to help me get a job as I near my next job search.  I also try to learn and become a better person over time, and I started to see my grooming as an area where I could improve.  At this time I also came across articles and websites talking about what does it mean to be a man.  Grooming was one part of the puzzle on how to be a better man.

My Results with Grooming Myself Better

So far I have adopted many aspects of better grooming.  I have improved many aspects of my grooming, and I have refreshed my suits, getting a better fit, and buying new shirts.  I have started to get compliments on my dressing as I have changed which is a new result for me.  I learned a few simple rules which I can use when dressing at all levels of dress.

Shining shoes is an essential step in learning to care for your shoes.  How your shoes appear affect every outfit from business casual to formal.  Many men simply do not know how to properly shine their shoes and until recently I was one of them.

Why Shine Shoes

Shoes, especially those made out of leather and vinyl need regular maintenance to look their best.  Leather scrapes, and scratches over time. The layers that hold the black dye will eventually wear off.  Worn, and not treated shoes made from leather begin to show signs of wear, and to wear out.  Shining shoes renews the leather and its color; it hides the scrapes and scratches.  Regularly shining shoes will keep your shoes looking nice for years.

How to Shine Shoes

How I shine my shoes, which delivers a good shine which I believe will build up over time:

1. Remove the shoe laces.
2. Clean the shoes with water and a washcloth or rag.
3. Dry the shoes, or allow them to air dry.
4. Use a sponge or rag to apply shoe polish to the shoe in circular motions all over the shoe.
5. All polish to dry slightly; usually as long as it takes to polish the other shoe.
6. Use a shoe shine brush to brush off excess polish.
7. Allow polish to dry.
8. Use the rag to lightly wash the shoe with water.
9. Dry the shoe, or allow it to dry.
10. Use a sponge or rag to apply shoe polish to the shoe in circular motions all over the shoe.
11. All polish to dry slightly; usually as long as it takes to polish the other shoe.
12. Use a shoe shine brush to brush off excess polish.

The process of washing and polishing can be done as often as you like.  I tend to see good results after the two steps I have outlined above.  There are some variations to shining shoes I have seen online.  Some people only shine the toes and heels to a bright shine.  Use my shining procedure as a starting point for your own success, find the system which will work for you.  Please don’t rely solely on the magic shoe shine sponges!

I have been learning how to look better when I dress in a suit.  The following is a list of rules and suggestions I have found.

Rules for Wearing a Man’s Suit

1. Match all metals (buckles, cuff-links, watches & watch chains) to the same color families: gold, brass, copper silver, nickel, steel
2. Match all leather (belt, shoes, watch band) to the same colors.  The colors are usually black and brown
3. Black, charcoal suits get black leather
4. Brown, blue suits get brown leather
5. White and light blue shirts are classics and will always look good
6. Socks need to match the suit
7. Classic tie patterns — stripes, solid, paisley
8. The tie colors should complement the suit
9. Wear a pocket square
10. Match a color in the pocket square to the tie, but do not match the pattern
11. You can not go wrong with a good quality hat, just find a style and color which fits your suits
12. Pocket watches and chains are a nice addition to a three piece suit.
13. Three piece suits are a little nicer than two piece suits.
14. Make sure the tie ends at the point where your slacks begin.

These are just the beginning rules of looking good in a suit.  There are other accessories which bring their own rules.

One last topic about wearing a suit which I would like to bring up is polishing shoes.  Shoes should be polished at least once a week if they are worn regularly.  This give us time to decide if they need to be repaired or replaced before putting them into action again.  Shoe need regular maintenance and cleaning.  Part of that maintenance is polishing.  Take the time to learn how to nicely polish your shoes.  Do not always rely on the quickie polish sponge to get them to their best.

I decided to experiment with my shaving routine.  Ever since I started shaving I have tried to find the perfect (for me) shave.  My beard is thick and it grows fast.  The thickness and speed of growth on my beard make finding a razor and shaving routine which work for me.  Firstly I learned to shave watching an older friend.  His style of shaving was to wet his face and take the blade to it.  I followed his example for years.  Then I tried an electric razor, and while I did not cut myself I had to shave two or three times a day to keep up with my beard.  After the electric razor died on me I tried every Gillette razor made including the Fusion.  I have used the canned shaving gel and the canned shaving cream.  The cartridge razors leave me with razor burn and I still gash myself on them.  Part of the problem is me.  The cartridges are so expensive that I use them well past their best number of uses.  So that has left me with some shaving goals.

My Goals

• Shave once a day
• Minimize bleeding from gashes scrapes and pokes
• Make my neck look good

My Research

In trying to solve this problem I conducted several web searches.  One of my first finds were two articles at These Art of Manliness titled How to Shave Like Your Grandpa and How to Shave Like Your Great Grandpa.

These articles led me to decide to try a double bladed safety razor.  In further research I discovered that different razors allow a different amount of blade to make contact with my face.  This is referred to as the razor’s aggressiveness.  I learned that the Merkur 33C, 34C, or any vintage Gillette razors would have a mild aggressiveness.  I chose a 1954 Gillette Super Speed Flair Tip DE Razor.  I was able to purchase the vintage razor at a slight discount compared to buying a new razor.  I also like the fact that it is almost as old as my dad.  The new razors I was considering were $35 to $50.  My vintage razor was about $22 with shipping. When the razor arrived I checked to see if the blade sat straight in the razor.  I was told that if the blade was not straight in the razor bleeding would occur.

Another part of my decision to shave this way was to try shaving soap and a brush.  I have not settled on a soap, but I am using the soap they had at Rite-Aid.  It lathers for me well.  What took some research was learning about shaving brushes.  I learned that brushes are made out of three different materials: synthetic, boar bristles, and badger.  I learned that the goal with the brush is water retention and that the synthetic brushes are the worst at water retention.  The next best is boar bristles, and the best is badger.  I went looking at badger brushes and learned that they are divided into three categories: pure badger, best badger, and silver tip.  I chose a pure badger brush, because that was where I found a balance between quality and cost.

My Shaving Kit

• My Gillette Razor
• Lords Razor Blades (came with the razor)
• A pure badger brush
• Stypic pencil
• Aftershave
• Shaving soap and mug
• Razor stand

My Experiences So Far

I have been shaving with this kit for a week now.  I find that I am getting the shave I want.  I shave once a day and its good until the next day.  I also do not cut myself often, and then it is easy to stop with the stypic pencil and aftershave.  My neck is still getting red, but I believe this to be my inexperience.